Puppy Training and Care of Australian Labradoodles
Care and Training
The most important, and first, thing to do with your new puppy is spend some time on bonding. It is the human-canine bond that is both unique and wondrous. Without it, a dog often becomes confused or lost. You are the most important creature in the world to him, a best friend. There is nothing a puppy wants more than to be loved.
Puppy wants to please and imitate his or her owner. He enjoys learning and communicating. It is up to the owner to give direction and be a role model. Negative training such as yelling or any physical pain makes puppy fearful and confused. The best thing to do is to keep all personal items out of reach of puppy, including wires and items on counter until puppy is fully trained to only touch his own toys. Food will always be tempting to dogs, so plan to always keep food out of reach.
Your Coastal Labradoodle puppy has been handled since birth, and we have taught him to be tolerant, polite, obedient, and social. We provide the proper environment to coincide with age appropriate developmental stages pertaining to house breaking, crate training, and proper behavior. The following information is our effort to make your puppy’s transition from our home to your home as successful as possible. There are many great books and online articles available, and we encourage you to find a method that works best for you.
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Take the puppy to puppy classes if possible. Read books. Start with Love Is All You Need by Jennifer Arnold. We also love The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller. In the middle of the book is a day by day training guide that works great! We highly recommend only positive training. Labradoodles are sensitive and sweet and respond best to positive rewards. Negative training, such as shock collars or other painful discipline, such as yelling, can cause fear and confusion. Make sure your children are educated as well as to reading the puppy’s signals and always gentle petting and playing.
Other good training books: The Dog Listener / How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves/ Living with Kids and Dogs Without Losing Your Mind by Coleen Pelar /The Puppy Primer /Puppy Training: Owner's Week-By-Week Training Guide by Charlotte Schwartz are other good training books. We also love: The Art of Raising a Puppy by the Monks of New Skete.
For those who like videos:
You Tube’s Zak George also has some good training videos. Dr Sophia Lin's web site has great videos/books on dog training as well as posters to print off for kids: Sophia Lin.
Normal Puppy Behaviours
Your puppy is a baby. Just as we don’t expect babies to behave like adolescents or adolescents to behave like adults, it is important you keep your expectations reasonable. Jumping, nipping or biting, chewing, toileting accidents, limited attention span, grabbing objects and running off, not listening, etc., are all normal puppy behaviors. It is our job to teach our puppies how to live in our world, according to our rules, in a gentle and positive way. Use this link for for a document on normal puppy behavior and use links below for ways to address.
Role play with your children before puppy arrives. Children need to have a calm voice for commands and a sweet, happy voice for praise. While pets can teach responsibility, be reasonable in your expectations and be ready to pick up the slack. Children fearful of dogs should not be around dogs. Dogs need confident, kind direction, consistent expectations and gentle handling.
Meet other household dogs on neutral ground, or in backyard. Then go for a walk and come in together. Supervise them at first. Put cats in another room for a day or two so puppy can smell, but not see. Then introduce with supervision.
Hazard avoidance stage or fear periods
There are 2 of these. In these periods, puppy will become afraid of any negative experience. The first one is at 8-12 weeks and the second at 6 to 14 months. Any frightening or painful experience can have lasting effect on the puppy. Never praise, cuddle, or comfort your pup when he is startled or showing fear. All experiences should be positive during this time. Expose her to all kinds of noises, household and outdoor and ignore any negative reactions of your puppy. Remove puppy from any negatives with a calm, unafraid attitude.
We will provide you with a sample schedule to put puppy on when you pick him up. You will need to adjust the puppy to your timing, your lifestyle, and your own schedule.
Newer studies show that vaccines given too frequently are not effective and can actually cause numerous immune related problems, neurological problems, behavioral problems, allergies, skin conditions, and other disorders. Here is a link to an article pertaining to this online: Dr Jean Dodds vaccines.
It is also true that there are reported vaccine failures. We suggest having your puppy titer tested at about 6 months to make sure he or she is protected against both Parvo and Distemper since these are serious diseases. If you have your vet send blood for testing to this lab using this VCL form, lab testing for titers will be much less expensive.
We highly recommend that Lepto (if you and your vet decide to give, which we choose not to) and rabies vaccines be given 3 weeks before and 3 weeks after any other vaccines and by themselves. Your health guarantee is void if rabies and/or Lepto is not given alone and with the 3 week window on each side. These 2 vaccines are the most reactive. Rabies has to given by law – at one year they can get a 3 years rabies. This is what Dr. Dodds and Dr. Schutz, 2 vets researching vaccines for over 50 years, both recommend.
Provide your puppy with lots of hard chew toys, such as bully sticks or porky puff chews from LA to help keep their teeth clean. We do not recommend rawhide or commercial dental chews due to the amount of preservatives and other artificial ingredients. Give your dog a daily Dental Treat from LA for added protection. See nutritional page for ordering.Your pup’s teeth should be brushed once per week. Again, as with all grooming activities it is important to acclimate your pup to this type of handling. Remember – patience and rewards are key.
To avoid matting, brush your puppy 2x a week for about 20 minutes. Learn to brush from the skin to the ends of the fleece, starting with the bottom layer and moving up, not just the top of the coat as matting can be happening underneath. A good video on how to brush can be found here: Brushing Your Doodle. and at https://www.wala-labradoodles.org/grooming-care
Directions for your Groomer
We recommend grooming every 8 to 12 weeks with a personal groomer that will get to know your dog. Ask your groomer to groom them as you would a sheepdog, not a poodle. There are certain areas in which labradoodles tend to matt, and your groomer should shave. One is the entire under ear flap, from the canal to the tip, directly behind and under the ear where the ear is attached to the skull. Also do a sanitary cut at the rear. Some dogs will matt at the collar and may need to have a track cut at the collar line. Other areas that matt must be determined on a dog by dog basis. Best to keep these areas thinned with thinning shears. Scissors cut the hair under and above the eyes to about ¼ inch. Remove all ear hair, clean ears and trim nails. Have your groomer view the videos.
Your puppy will go through a coat transition sometime close to a year old. His adult coat will begin to come in, and you will need to do some extra brushing to remove the dead puppy coat so that the adult coat does not matt into it. This process can take several months to complete until the adult coat is fully in. In many cases, it is simplest to have your dog shaved down and let the adult coat come in without the added maintenance of removing the puppy coat over a period of a few months. The adult coat will be the same as the puppy coat: Allergy friendly, soft and low shed.
Monthly ear cleaning
Due to the non-shedding nature of the labradoodle, the ear canals do not shed. The ear hair has to be removed manually and the ear shaft cleaned. We recommend bi-weekly ear grooming. Using LA ear cleaner once a week is important. It has an ingredient that brings any bad things out of the canal to the surface where you can wipe out with a cotton ball. It was formulated by an herbalist and has all- natural ingredients, each with a purpose, such as lavender and chamomile to soothe. Unlike oils, other ear cleaners, powders, etc. the LA ear cleaner will not disrupt the natural eco system of the ear. Hair needs to be cut with a round ended small scissors monthly to keep canal clear and open. Plucking the hair can cause irritation. Use the LA ear cleaner bi-weekly. You will get a bottle in your pick- up packet.
Feed 3x a day according to directions on bag. Because it is rich in nutrients, you will be feeding less LA food than other brands. This means less poop to scoop! If stools are too soft, it could be you are feeding too much. Start with least recommended amount on bag for day and divide by 3 for 3 feedings per day. Gradually increase if puppy still seems hungry.
Should your puppy develop an upset stomach and soft stools during his first few days with you, do not be alarmed. This is normal and his body’s response to being stressed. Being removed from mom and litter mates, traveling, and possibly having a change in food can all contribute to this issue. Pure canned pumpkin (not pumpkin pie filling) can quickly and easily help this problem, one tablespoon mixed in with each meal. You may want to have some on hand just in case you need it.
A dog’s digestive system can be sensitive to changes in food. You can give her a bit of human food to get them used to it such as chopped chicken, beef, carrots, salmon, apple, eggs. Best to give a little at first as some dogs can be sensitive to some foods and any type of new change can upset a dog’s stomach. Adding a bit of dog healthy human food and changing dog food formula, such as wild fowl to bison, adds a bit of joy to a dog’s eating experience. Some foods, such as some nuts and chocolate, should never be given to a dog. Items that can’t be fully chewed can sometimes get stuck in their intestines. Make sure to check each food before introducing for dog friendliness.
The SPCA has a list online of both foods and plants that can act as poison to dogs. Dogs are also very sensitive to chemicals. Consider using natural methods to treat your lawn and insect control. Read this for study linking lawn pesticides to cancer. Pesticides can also weaken their immune system.
For a list of common household dangers to pets home safety guide. In general, keep all small objects, including coins which can be highly poisonous to pets, off of floors or low areas your dog can reach.
Keep fresh Drinking water available at all times. Add a teaspoon of Apple Cider Vinegar to help prevent UTIs as well as prevent fleas from being attracted to your dog. In addition, excellent nutrition and finding foods with no recalls (which usually means poisons were found in the food) helps keep all parasites at bay. We highly recommend LA foods for this reason and many others.
We encourage you take your puppy on walks in your own yard, and to “safe” locations. Do not take him to the park or to the pet store, and carry him into the Veterinarian’s office until final booster vaccines are given. You can let him play with “safe” dogs that are well cared for and properly vaccinated, but must be cautious until he is properly protected by his vaccinations.
It is important that your puppy experience people, places, things, other animals of various shapes and sizes, textures, surfaces, smells, etc, but in a safe, controlled manner. “Safe” means that you have thought about who could have been there before you, and you know that they were healthy, well vaccinated dogs, not stray or unknown dogs. Safe also means that the experiences are positive. You need to control the environment, the people, so that they handle the dog gently and lovingly. Make all outtings are fun, make sure you and your family are fun to people to be this. A group puppy socialization class is a good idea.
Never force a puppy to experience a person or thing. Let them explore at their own pace. Some will be shyer, some more outgoing. Just like the shy child, forcing socialization can make the puppy afraid, more fearful. However, though it may take many months, offering opportunities with you, the trusting, confident leader, will bring puppy out of her shell. As she has successful, positive experiences, she will begin to blossom into a friendly, confident dog.
Puppy Manners 101:
We feel it is important for your puppy to be a Good Citizen, so we teach the puppies acceptable manners and behavior. We start teaching the puppies to have respect for their mouths, teeth and bite from a very early age. Labradoodles have a naturally soft mouth, and it is important to encourage a puppy to use his mouth correctly.
When they put something in their mouths that does not belong there, we make a noise to get their attention, and say “No Bite”. By getting their attention and distracting them, they will usually release the item, giving you enough time to redirect or replace it with a proper toy. Praise with “Good Puppy, Good No Bite”. If you are not quick, and you miss your opportunity, repeat the command, and try again. Do not ever chase the puppy. Walk in the opposite direction instead, and he will be curious enough to follow.
If the puppy is chewing on an inappropriate item, we get their attention, say “No Bite”, and distract them with one of their own toys. You should be able to keep a watchful eye and correct your puppy from across the room. If he responds, praise with “Good Puppy, Good No Bite”. If he goes back to chewing, repeat the command, and head in his direction. This should be enough for him to realize he needs to stop what he is doing, and go do something else. If not, it’s nap-time, because he is no longer listening. Make sure everyone is on board, including children. Supervise young children at all times.
If the puppy mouths or bites at any human, adult or child, we say “ No Bite!” Walk away from the puppy for several minutes, then come back and initiate calmer play. It is important to try to play calmly with your puppy. If you fire him up, he will respond with rough play, and it is very difficult to calm him down. If you are on the ground playing at his level, he will treat you like a littermate, and they play with their teeth. If you are on the floor, sit up, and don’t let him jump up on you.
Never play tug-of-war. It teaches your puppy to bite down and hang on, and endangers any child playing the game. This hardens or desensitizes his mouth and you may never fix it. It will require tougher and tougher chew toys to satisfy his hard mouth, and he may even revert to chewing inappropriately when not supervised. Also, in a rough play situation, if he can’t feel how hard he is biting, he may hurt someone unintentionally.
You can sensitize his mouth further by pretending he hurts you whenever he gently mouths or bites your skin, hair or clothing. He should get to the point that he thinks you are super-sensitive, and he will gradually turn to mouthing, then slobbering, or licking, and eventually stop all mouth activities. If you like licking, you can give a command, so he understands that it is ok to lick, but he can’t progress to mouthing. Use retrieving games, “Find It” games, and proper chew toys to encourage the mind and mouth to behave properly.
DO NOT run with your puppy before he is at least 16 months old! Puppy joints are going through a lot of development very quickly. If you put too much stress on your puppy’s developing joints, you could actually cause or contribute to joint problems that could affect your dog for his lifetime. A puppy running off leash is just fine, but no running with repetitive movements on a leash with you. Brisk walking / fetch or any repetitive forced movement should be limited to a few minutes until 16 months old – 2 minutes at 8 weeks and increasing to 20-30 minutes on a level, soft surface by 6 months. By 16 months walks can be increased to however long puppy wants as joints are now grown. This puppy exercise guidelines will help. Here’s one on appropriate exercise.
Mental exercise is as important as physical exercise. This means challenging your pup to use its brain! A dog’s most sensitive sense is its nose, and challenging its nose is one the best ways to use its brain. Visit this site for more information:
What is K9 Nose Work.
Here is a quick list of some fun nose work games: 8 Fun Scent Games Your Dog Will Love
Training and sports (obedience, agility, fly ball, etc) are also great ways to challenge your dog mentally. There are many puzzles and games available for your dog. Here is a site that provides some examples:
Do not let puppy go up and down stairs until at least a year old, except a few now and then.
Puppies and dogs deserve to be treated with respect. They are not stuffed animals, but living creatures with their own desire for affection and respect. Puppies should not be carried around, but allowed to walk freely or, if they are to be restricted, on a leash. Puppies should not be restrained or forced to sit with someone they don’t want to. Puppies should be invited to interact. If they accept the invitation, they should be handled gently and respectfully. If they decline the invitation, their refusal should be respected. As a reminder of the importance for respectful interaction, see the video at:
Tips for Respectful Interaction. This site also has many wonderful resources for families.
For tips on what defines respectful interaction, see the posters at:
A tagline is a great way to teach puppy manners. You can make your own with a 6 foot rope (not too thick) and a clip from the hardware store. Tie the clip snugly to the rope and clip it to puppy’s collar. You only want the tagline on when puppy is under direct supervision and never when you put him in his crate. Puppy is going to be testing his boundaries all the time. Using a Tagline allows you to easily stop him from rehearsing behaviors you don’t like without him realizing that you are the one stopping him. Also, it saves you from saying “no.”
How does the tagline work? Dogs and puppies have something called opposition reflex. When you pull in one direction their bodies instinctually pulls in the other. So when puppy is doing behavior you don’t want such as nipping, jumping or chewing on an electrical wire, you say nothing, but use the Tagline to lift him up and away, his body will naturally pull down and he will sit. If every time he jumps up he ends up sitting and gets nothing, including your attention, he will eventually stop jumping up. As your pup grows, use the Tagline to keep your puppy from jumping on guests, your children and you. The line itself teaches pup to sit when new people enter the door. When outside, you may need a longer one.
It is also important for your puppy to allow you to touch all parts of his body, look into his mouth and ears, handle his food bowl, and take toys or bones out of his mouth. When your puppy is getting tired, or when he is very calm, pet him heavily in long smooth strokes down his back, and praise him with a low calm voice. If your puppy walks away, stop talking to him and wait for him to come back to you. Resume the heavy petting and calm praise until he accepts it and appreciates it. As he grows to enjoy it, start petting him down his sides, then down his legs, and under his belly, until he associates touch with something pleasant, and looks forward to this special bonding time with you.
Your puppy should allow any member of the family to touch him or his food bowl while he’s eating. Sit by your puppy’s empty food bowl and reach into it, touch it, pick it up, and set it back down while your puppy is watching. Then drop a piece of food into the bowl, and do the same thing. If he gently eats the food around you praise him. If he gets rough with his mouth, use the “No Bite” command. Do the same thing with bones or toys.
Potty Training 101:
Your Austin Labradoodle puppy began “housebreaking” at an early age. Your puppy’s Mother kept herself, her puppies, and her whelping area clean, to teach her babies good habits that will last their entire lives. When your puppy started spending more time away from Mom, we started crate-training and house-breaking by placing them for short periods of time in a puppy playpen for playtimes, and in taking them outside to potty and poo in an exercise pen. Your puppy was given a blanket and toys in part of the playpen, and paper pads placed in the potty area for going potty. Once the puppies are old enough, we take them for puppy walks so they can experience different surfaces. Here they are free to go potty as well. The walks not only help them understand where going potty is okay, but builds their confidence in being able to explore in a safe setting. The entire process reinforced what their Mom has been teaching all along; it’s important to live in a clean house.
We highly recommend placing your puppy on a schedule with eating, sleeping, playing, and going to the bathroom. Young puppies will poop first thing in the morning, last thing at night, sometimes in the middle of the night, after each meal, and sometimes in between each meal. Count it up, possibly up to eight times per day. They are little factories churning their food into growth and energy, and their waste is a by-product of that activity. Take away all food and water about 3 hours before bedtime and take him out for potty before putting in crate for night.
We recommend that you go out with your puppy and be consistent, same door, same commands, and use the same area. One idea that works well is to fence off an area of the yard where you want your puppy to go. This makes for easy clean up. Bring your puppy here and lock him in with gate until he goes. You can even put sand in this area if you want to make it “different.” Eventually he will automatically go in this area and you can take the fence down.
We tell the puppies “Outside”, and take them out. When we get outside we tell them “Potty”, and quietly keep encouraging them, and reminding them why we are out here with one simple word “Potty”. We continue quietly saying “Potty” as they are going to the bathroom. When they are finished going potty, we praise them with “Good Puppy, Good Potty Outside”. Don’t change to praise until you know they have completed their task. Repetition, consistancy, and praise are very important. We do not use treats when we are potty training.
As you turn to go back into the house, say “Let’s Go in the House”. If the puppy does not follow, just keep slowly and deliberately repeating the command as you continue walking towards the house. They will not want to be left behind and will follow you. As you come into the house, and are praising your good puppy, stop him, ask him to “Sit”, take ahold of him if needed, and pretend to wipe off his feet. This will be very helpful in wet weather.
When you are outside with your puppy, you need to separate the business from the pleasure. After the business of going to the bathroom is complete, then you can play ball, go for a walk, go back into the house, or simply sit in the grass with your puppy. They have such a short attention span; you need to clearly separate the different things you are asking of them.
If your puppy does not go to the bathroom outside, you need to repeat the process shortly. Watch them carefully when they come back into the house. Look for signs of distraction, sniffing, pacing, circling, whining, etc. If you are carefully supervising, you will see small changes in your puppy’s behavior that signals she is feeling something different, and you can run her outside. If your puppy has an accident immediately upon entering the house, after being outside, you need to re-evaluate your commands, and how you are giving them, to decide if you are being specific and basic enough for your puppy to understand.
If your puppy has an accident, and because you were supervising closely, you catch her in the act. Loudly say “NO”, this will startle her, stop the accident, and give you the opportunity to say, “Let’s Go Outside”. If you are close to the puppy, calmly pick her up and carry her outside.
If your puppy has an accident, and because you were busy elsewhere in the household, you didn’t see her do it, it is your mistake. The puppy will not remember that she did it, so correction doesn’t work. Quietly clean it up, using a chemical deodorizer/cleanser that breaks down the scent, and move on. It is important to remember that your puppy has an extremely strong sense of smell. By taking them to the same area, you are increasing the scent of poop and urine in that area, and reinforcing that this is the proper area. However, repeated accidents in your home that are not properly cleaned up, also have the same result.
It is important that you gradually lengthen the time in between outside sessions. This will help your puppy learn to “hold it” for longer periods of time. Direct supervision will tell you what that length of time is. If your puppy does well the first week, and then relapses in the second week, re-evaluate your behavior, back up a step, and start over. Chances are good that you are not being clear, and your puppy is confused.
When people come to your house to visit, we recommend that
your puppy have a good sit, and some leash training under his belt. Have your guests come in, and initially pay no attention to the puppy. When the excitement has calmed, make him sit before anyone pets him. If he breaks the sit, they do not pet him. If he jumps, have them turn their back to him. Most people are perfectly willing to help you with this, as they don’t like being mauled by a strange dog at the door either. You can also give them little treats to give him when he is behaving.
Crate Training 101
Your Austin Labradoodle puppy began “crate training” at an early age, when he began to spend short periods of time away from his Mother. We also put puppies in little crates at night for about 6 hours. We have encouraged your puppy to live in a clean house, but it’s important to remember that young puppies do not have good bladder control, and they will have accidents. Praise for good behavior, and quietly clean up the mess if you miss the accident. We do not use treats for crate training, and we never leave a collar on a puppy in the crate.
Young puppies should be sleeping in their crate at night (near where you sleep), during daytime naps, and anytime you cannot directly supervise them. During the day, place the crate in a location that is central to your Family, and where the puppy can easily go in and out of the open door of the crate at any time during his play sessions. You can also place several toys in the crate during his play session.
We also recommend feeding your puppy in his crate or giving him “yummy” meals if you have many distractions in a busy household. At feeding time, we soak the puppy’s food, add some canned food or a spoonful of yogurt, and when it is ready, set it down or place him in his kennel with the food. We also recommend keeping dry food available to your puppy in between yummy meals in case he gets hungry or needs that excess nutrition for growth spurts or energy spurts. Your puppy will need to go outside immediately after finishing his bowl of food, so pay attention. If he doesn’t eat all of it, but you think he has eaten enough to have to go outside to the bathroom, go ahead and take him out. You can offer him any remaining food when he comes back in. This simple feeding regimen will be a huge asset to your potty training, if you follow it.
When we place a puppy in a crate to sleep, we use a washable towel as bedding. It’s important that you have a clean, dry, cozy place for your puppy to sleep. Very often doggie beds can be hard to wash, and babies can have accidents. We also place one soft toy and one chewable (non-edible) toy in the crate. He can cuddle with the soft toy, or teeth with the chewable toy, until he falls asleep. A stuffed animal with beating heart sound inside also helps.
Give your commands slowly and quietly as this is not the time to add excitement to your puppy’s life. Make sure he is tired and empty whenever he goes in his crate! Here, we tell the puppies “Night-time”, and we take them to their crate. Then we say “Kennel” as we place them in the crate. We close the door and quietly walk away. If the puppy makes objections to being placed in a crate, ignore and pay no attention to him until he settles down and is quiet. After a few days, and when you know he knows you expect him to be quiet in the crate, if he decides to object, we will say “Quiet” in a loud, startling, low, growl type voice. If needed, you can clap your hands or say his name before the command to get his attention. Your puppy should associate the startling loud noise with his actions and stop within a few corrections.
When your puppy is quiet in his crate, leave him for his nap. As soon as your puppy stirs, take him out of the crate and take him outside. He will want to go potty as soon as he wakes. Make sure you are not adjusting the noise level in your home while he sleeps. He needs to learn to sleep soundly through household noises and loud commercials on the television. Sometimes it helps to have a TV or radio playing quietly, or a fan in the room running, so your puppy gets used to “white” noise around him, and learns to ignore it.
After going outside to potty, you can the initiate activities with your puppy for 45 – 60 minutes before he will be ready to take another nap. This time in between naps will increase gradually, but naps are very important for babies. It gives them time for growth, and time to reset their behavior patterns. Tired puppies get emotional, unruly, switch into high gear, and they stop listening. When you see this behavior change, take your pup outside for one last potty session, and use this time to quiet down your puppy, and then repeat the napping in the crate process. If your puppy is tired and empty when he goes into his crate, he will fall asleep very quickly.
If your puppy is not settling down for his nap, and he continues to make noise in his crate, you need to make a decision to either take him outside for an additional potty session, or buckle down with a correction or ignore him. However, it’s important to not let the puppy out of his crate when he is noisy. This is rewarding bad behavior, and the next time you place your puppy in his crate, you may have to work on quiet time for twice as long. Try to wait until he has quieted down, even if it is brief, and then take him outside.
Consider traveling with our dogs in a crate or use a harness that attaches to the seat belt. This is a safety feature in the case of an accident, for us as well as our dogs. We do not need the distraction of a dog hopping around the vehicle as we are driving on a busy highway.
For the initial trip home, you can have your puppy ride on your lap, but after that you should check into either having the puppy ride in a crate or in a seatbelt. We recommend that you keep the temperature in your vehicle very cool while traveling, remember, your dog has a fur coat. Also place a collar with an ID Tag on him, and walk him on a leash during any stops.
We hope you have found these tips and tricks are helpful in preparing for your puppy to come home, or that it helps with the transition into your home, family and schedule.
Links to Important Information
Training and Behavior:
Dr. Sophia Yin: Kids and Dogs Interactions
Dr. Patricia McConnell, Blog
Dr. Ian Dunbar, Training Tips:
Dr. Ian Dunbar: Before you get your puppy
Dr. Ian Dunbar: After you get your puppy
Health and Wellness:
Whole Dog Journal, Free Tip of the Week
Dr. Jean Dodds, Blog